The many islands of the Cumberland Group with their fringing coral reefs offer a wide range of easily accessible sites for diving and snorkelling. It is possible to find somewhere that is protected in almost any weather, so that snorkelling and diving can be enjoyed virtually 365 days a year, even when Reef excursions elsewhere along the coast are being cancelled because of wind. For this reason the area has become a popular destination for both the novice and experienced diver. It is also a gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, which lies about 34 nautical miles to the north-east of the Whitsunday mainland, about two hours or so by fast dive boat (or slightly longer in a motorised catamaran, which makes a few stops at island resorts on the way to and from the Reef). The fleet of charter boats that depart daily for the islands and the Reef offer a number of ways for snorkelling enthusiasts and divers to explore the underwater world. These include:

• general day trips to the Great Barrier Reef aboard fast catamarans each capable of carrying over a hundred tourists and sightseers. These vessels tie up at a large pontoon permanently moored at the Reef, and guests are free to go snorkelling on their own or on guided tours; dive instructors on board organise scuba diving for both beginners and certified divers;
• day trips to the islands aboard charter sailboats catering for general sightseers, with a bit of swimming, sunbaking, island exploring, snorkelling and, if arrangements are made in advance, diving for certified divers;
• day trips to the islands aboard boats catering exclusively for divers and snorkellers, both experienced and inexperienced - a leisurely day with up to two dives at a fringing reef and plenty of snorkelling time;
• day dive trips to the Great Barrier Reef aboard purposeoriented dive boats; the program includes two dives - an ideal trip for the diver or keen snorkeller who wants top diving but has limited time;
• dive trips of 1-5 nights duration to the Great Barrier Reef, with virtually unlimited diving, including night diving; these trips offer the best value for keen divers;
• overnight trips to the islands for both diving and snorkelling as well as island exploration.

Certified divers should remember that it's essential to carry your certification card with you or you will not be able to dive (other than as a beginner, with an instructor). It's necessary to carry your log book as well.

Snorkelling

Snorkelling is one of the best ways to appreciate a coral reef - in shallow water where the sunlight is bright and the colours of the reef can really be appreciated. Snorkelling requires little equipment, and one can become totally absorbed observing the wide variety of corals or watching reef creatures going about their business in their own environment. A few hours of snorkelling practice before departing on a holiday, particularly for those who are new to it or who haven't done it for several years, will be well rewarded when the time comes, because the brush-up on basic skills will make it easier to relax in the water, which is the key to enjoyment.

Equipment for snorkelling

All that's needed is a face mask, snorkel, and fins. Its important to have a mask that fits well, for a leaking mask is not only annoying but it interferes with relaxing. Anyone who intends doing much snorkelling should consider purchasing their own mask rather than leaving it to chance that they'll find a good fit among those provided by a cruise operator. And, it's wise to purchase a mask at a dive shop rather than a supermarket, for example, because dive shops stock a wider range, and they know how a mask is supposed to fit. Test the mask by holding it against the face with the index finger, making sure that all hair is away from the part that seals around the face, then breathe in gently through the nose. The mask will be sucked against the face and should stay there without being held, even when the head is shaken gently from side to side.

Snorkels come in a variety of models, some with features such as adjustable mouth pieces and purge valves, which make them very comfortable to use, but basically a snorkel is just a simple tube, and the simplest model can be quite adequate. They're not expensive, so when buying a mask, its a good idea to get the snorkel as well, and that way they will always be together in your bag, properly assembled.

Fins come in three or four size ranges, and it's usually quite easy to find a pair that fits among those provided by the cruise operator.

Water temperature in the Whitsundays

The water in the Whitsundays is relatively warm all year round, but even so, most snorkellers wearing only a swimsuit find that 20-30 minutes is about as long as they can go without beginning to get chilled. A wetsuit with short sleeves and short pants (a 'shorty') may give some added comfort in the cooler months, although the minimum average temperature in mid-winter (21°C) is certainly not too cold for ordinary swimming.

Basic skills

Enjoyable snorkelling depends on one's being able to lie face down in the water completely relaxed, keeping the body flat on the surface and breathing easily. Being relaxed is the key to staying parallel with the bottom, which is the correct position for viewing. If the body is tense, the feet and legs have a tendency to sink, and you find yourself churning the water to stay afloat, perhaps even kicking the bottom if you're in shallow water, which will certainly frighten away any wildlife that you might hope to see. Newcomers to snorkelling should practise in the shallow end of a swimming pool or near a beach (where it's easy to stand up) until breathing through the snorkel feels natural.

Finning is an almost straight-legged action, with knees slightly bent. Some say it helps to imagine having splints on your legs. It's sometimes easier to get the feel of it on your back.

Watch out for currents and for sunburn
Surface currents can be quite strong in the Whitsundays, particularly at times of spring tides. Keep an eye on the boat to see that you haven't drifted too far away.

Sunburn can be a potential hazard for snorkellers because one feels no heat, and it's possible to get a burn on the back of the legs and upper back while absorbed in the underwater scenery. Always put on plenty of water-resistant sunscreen, or wear a T-shirt; some snorkellers wear a Lycra suit, or shirt and trousers, which gives good protection from the sun and also protection against scrapes and scratches.

When in the water

There are few aggressive creatures to be encountered, although some are curious about snorkellers just as snorkellers are curious about them. It's a good idea when entering foreign territory to behave like a guest in someone else's house. In this state of mind, interaction with the local inhabitants will almost certainly be polite and pleasant. As a general rule it's wise to be a passive observer and not to handle the animals.

Don't splash around on the surface making a lot of noise, impersonating a wounded fish; you may send out the wrong signals. Marine creatures depend on a spectrum of low-frequency vibrations for communication, navigation, and for detecting wounded prey.

Scuba diving

There are half a dozen or so training organisations on the mainland offering full certificate courses of 5-7 days duration, including training dives at island and Barrier Reef sites. There is a lot of competition for students among the operators, and dontjudge a course on price alone. Check out several options, ask about training centres, find out what's included in the price, and ask where the training dives are conducted and on what kind of vessel. Diving instruction is available at most or all of the island resorts.

Water temperature in the Whitsundays

Wetsuits required for comfortable diving in Whitsunday waters
are shown below. Month Temp.°C Wetsuitrequired for diving January 27 Lycra suit or 3 mm 'shorty' or 'steamer'* April 25 3 mm 'shorty' or 'steamer' July 21 5 mm 'steamer' or 'long John' and jacket October 23 3 mm or 5 mm 'steamer'

Diving at the Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is renowned for its spectacular diving, with unparalleled coral diversity and reef life. Some of the reefs accessible from the Whitsundays offer diving on a par with the best along the length of the Reef. Visibility ranges from 6 to 30 metres depending upon the winds, tides and location. Among sites regularly visited by local operators, Bait and Fairy reefs have the best water clarity. Surface conditions depend on wind and tide: at low tide, an individual reef can provide protection from choppy seas. Currents are a fact of life offshore, and it is often best to dive during periods of slack tide, or to dive in protected areas. A drift dive is sometimes the answer when currents are strong.

Diving around the islands

The fringing reefs of the Whitsundays are noted for their high diversity of corals and their teeming fish and other marine life. The water is not as clear as it is out at the Barrier Reef itself due to the presence of fine sediments from adjacent mainland rivers and runoff from the islands themselves. Visibility in the water ranges from 2 to 15 metres depending upon the weather, the tides and the location, and it tends to improve as one gets further from the mainland. It is generally clearest at sites along the northern side of Hook and Hayman islands. There are nevertheless some definite advantages to diving among the islands:

• the islands are easily accessible and offer calm waters in nearly all weather conditions; most dive sites have little current (except where near a headland or within a narrow passage); and
• there is prolific sea life at nearly every site - nudibranchs, feather stars, Christmas-tree worms, sea cucumbers, and almost every small tropical fish in the book.

Diving in the Coral Sea

Diving in the coral sea is renowned for excellent visibilty in the water and for large pelagic fishes and other marine life. Extended dive charters to the Coral Sea (5 days and longer) are available from the Whitsundays.

Diving safety

Dives at island sites are usually fairly shallow, and decompression is not an issue. At the Barrier Reef there is greater temptation and opportunity to go deeper. The nearest recompression facility is at Townsville. The outer reefs are several hours from the mainland by boat, and Townsville is a 3 1/2 hours drive - that's at least 7 hours before recompression can begin. Therefore it's best to say that, for practical purposes, recompression is not available in the Whitsundays, and prevention should be the guideline.